Burning & Dodging

To burn and doge a print you have to exposes different sections of the print for longer to either give the image more contrast or less, which ever suits you. For what I did I had to expose the whole image for around 5 seconds then cover up part of the image, in my case this was the flower to keep the flower white. Then carry on exposing the image while shaking black card onto of the place you wish to keep less exposed. Below is my attempt at burning using the darkroom.

These are the pictures i took when i was experimenting with the artifical lighting using the umbrellas for the first time.

Toner

During this lesson we used two different toners, one being sepia, (to give it that old Victorian look) the other being a very vivid dark blue.

• The first step was to have the prints to use. Then we had to soak each print in water.
• Then once left to soak for about a minute, only if toning with the brown you would have to bleach the print for two minutes. With the blue toner bleaching was not necessary as the bleach was mixed in with the toner.
• Finally the print would be left in the toner for as long as it needed, which would generally be around a minute.

During the toner it's the metallic silver which is converted into a sulfide compound. A good example of a professional who is known for their toning is Henry Fox Talbot, he is one of the major Victorian photographers, he used sepia toning for many of his photographs. Just below to the right is an example of his work.

This is my Blue toned print, here i have only tone half the image to show the difference between before and after, also I do like the effect of having the single flower blue while leaving the other white. The picture below that is my sepia print which is my favourite out of my toned pictures as it looks like a real classic Victorian photograph.

These next pictures are toned using Photoshop.

Before:

After:

This image I adjusted the Hue/Saturation with these settings:

• Hue: -180
• Saturation: -58
• Lightness: -17

This next picture has only ahd the saturation changed:

Before:

After:

How I saturated this,

• Crtl J to make a copy layer
• Used the gaussian blur with a radius of 5
• Changed the blending mode to colour
• Crtl U to put the saturation up

Colour change of an idivuidual item is easy to do, you just need to:

• Lasso around the item
• Right click and select inverse
• Then bring the saturation of the picture all the way down

Here is my example:

Poster Art

I have started to create a poster art picture these are the stages that i had to go through to bring all the images together;

1. Magnetic lasso, this is cutting out the exact part of each picture that i need.
2. Levels, i needed to change the levels of all images to strip back most the detail of the pictures.
3. Burning, now the images were too bleched so certain areas like the eyes and nose had to be burned.
4. Filters, then each image had to have its own filter, i.e the girl the stamp filter

This is the first finished poster art I have done using the images they gave me and I will continue this further to make a poster art of a picture relating to my suject topic.

Essay Question

Question - How does using lighting affect studio photography?

Why? – I have always felt that studio photography is brilliant because of how clear cut and detailed the pictures can come out if used correctly. Especially on the tone of the skin, it makes the skin look almost perfect.

1st hand resources –My brother has his own small studio set so I have access to a studio set at home and now at school with our new studio set. I will be asking around my friends to see who will be willing to bet the subjects for my photos. I intend to explore the difference the positioning of the lighting will make to the picture.

Some Photographers:

Nick Knight

Rankin

F-Stops

The term stop is sometimes confusing due to its multiple meanings. A stop can be a physical object: an opaque part of an optical system that blocks certain rays. The aperture stop is the aperture that limits the brightness of the image by restricting the input pupil size, while a field stop is a stop intended to cut out light that would be outside the desired field of view and might cause flare or other problems if not stopped.In photography, stops are also a unit used to quantify ratios of light or exposure, with one stop meaning a factor of two, or one-half. The one-stop unit is also known as the EV (exposure value) unit. On a camera, the f-number is usually adjusted in discrete steps, known as f-stops. Each "stop" is marked with its corresponding f-number, and represents a halving of the light intensity from the previous stop. This corresponds to a decrease of the pupil and aperture diameters by a factor of about 1.414, and hence a halving of the area of the pupil.